Though it's been a tough year for hutong dwellers – what with the endless closure of various quirky, creative, and beloved alleyway businesses – a new art project should help cheer up anyone with an unwavering affinity for offbeat happenings in Beijing's aged courtyards and twisty corridors.

Fittingly titled Hutong Art Project Vol. 1, a series of events will take to the hutongs and span both this and next weekend, featuring documentary screenings, photo exhibitions, open mics and poetry readings, and other such works that celebrate the vibrancy and volatility of these bohemian Beijing neighborhoods. Participants include established scenesters like Lance Crayon (who will talk about graffiti culture and screen his related doc Spraypaint Beijing); spoken performances by members of Spittoon and Loreli; ‘zine showcases by the girls behind Hole in the Wall; and art exhibits by a range of up-and-comers. 

Hutong Art Project founder Liu “Jady” Qilin (who also kickstarted the Beijing Hutong Team as a platform as a collective for such events) hails from Chongqing, and is currently enrolled at Beijing Normal University. He spends much of his free time at alt-rock gigs, doc screenings, cafés, and trawling through what remains of the city's hutong haunts.  

“As a newcomer in Beijing and art and culture enthusiast, I'm very glad I can collect many creative people to join the Hutong Art Project. Every participant has the freedom to record and express hutongs in their own perspective,” he tells the Beijinger about the series of events he coordinated this month, adding that he’s already planning a follow up of four more events for the Hutong Art Project Vol. 2 in September.

Liu was inspired to put on this series of celebratory events back in April when he heard rumblings about Fangjia Hutong’s widespread chai-ing. The series of events kicks off this afternoon (Jul 20) with the Vitality Remains exhibition at 27 Yard, which Jady curated personally. The exhibition features an array of photos that amount to a “before and after” account of alleys that were bricked over, and how people keep going about their lives despite even after the dust literally settled. “I wanted to convey the message that although the hutongs are being renovated, vitality still remains.”

A similar exhibition of photos and paintings will be put on at Luo Space on July 29, marking the end of the initial rendition of this project.

Jady hopes the themes of, and talent partaking in, these events will be relatable to many an artsy hutong regular. However, he will also look to broaden the scope of future projects. “At first I suggested them try to record different hutongs and interview different parties affected by the renovation such as residents, shop owners, customers, and tourists, but later it appeared that participants preferred to voice their own opinion. So, we decided to make the project a specific and focused one rather than being exhaustive but broken.”

Until then, downtrodden Beijingers can be heartened by this uplifting group of events about all that make the hutongs such an exciting place to be.

The Hutong Art Project: Vol. 1 runs from July 20-23 and July 29, with each day’s event kicking off at 3pm. Below is a list of the venues and events scheduled for each day:

July 20 - 27 Yard
July 21 - Yue Space
July 22 - NC Space
July 23 - Camera Stylo
July 29 - Luo Music Space

More specifics can be found here, or scan the QR code below to join the project's group chat:

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Email: kylemullin@truerun.com
Twitter: @MulKyle

Photos courtesy of The Beijing Hutong Team

Clearly the rain doesn’t help with cooling things down. Have you noticed that even the number of dancing grandmas at Workers' Stadium has vastly decreased to a handful due to the sweltering heat? Since we're trapped here, let’s take a beer break and look at the various liquid solutions open to us this weekend.

If you are a true beer lover and/or a loyal reader, it's likely that you're aware of how much we enjoyed Great Leap Brewing's Leaping the Dog Barley Champagne Rosé collab with Australian brewery Moon Dog. This beer is brewed using raspberries to give the brew a light body, and a dry, crisp finish with a hefty 13.5 percent ABV. Thankfully, they saved a few liters to bottle, which will be available at all three GLB locations for RMB 148 from Friday (Jul 21).

Slow Boat also has two new beers on tap: Yacht Party Blonde (5 percent ABV) marks the second time that they've brewed this variety (the first batch was called Banyan Blonde), the difference being that they've swapped the former hops for Palisade hops to give it a pillowy head with green papaya and orange blossom aromas. This beer supposedly represents “all of the tattooed bravado and blatant sexiness of Tommy Lee and Pamela Anderson on a boat,” which we'll take their word for. The second beer is a Belgian-style Koh Chang Saison with 5.4 percent ABV, which is brewed with lots of lemongrass to create a bright orange color and rich texture with citrusy aromas.

Also, thanks to SB's head chef Clement Rol’s recent visit to Thailand, the team have been inspired to add gai yang, or Thai grilled chicken satay, to the food menu. This dish includes five juicy chicken skewers, the meat marinated overnight in a blend of palm sugar and lemongrass, seasoned with a dash of garlic and coriander, and served with a spicy dipping sauce. Slow Boat recommends washing them down with a pint of Koh Chang to get about as close as you can get to Southeast Asia if you're stuck here like us.

Over at Peiping Machine, there are now six beers from American brewery Boulevard on tap: Calling IPA, Tank 7, Single Wide, Pale Ale, including two limited options: Unfiltered Wheat (4.4 percent ABV), and Tropical Pale Ale (5.9 percent ABV). There's also No. 18’s The Bloody Blade Imperial Stout (8.5 percent ABV), Harviestoun IPA, Tripsmith’s Haunted Warrior Imperial Stout (12 percent ABV), Breakfast Stout from Founders (8.3 percent ABV), and Gonzo Imperial Porter from Flying Dog (9.2 percent ABV) if you're looking for something a little boozier.

Another and another new batch over at Via Jian Guo, who have added Hippy Berliner Sour Hoppy Ale, Tropidelic Pale Ale, Hopwired IPA, Super Conductor, Double IPA, Flat White Stout (RMB 48-60) from Kiwi Brewery 8 Wired, Bomb! Imperial Stout, Pirate Bomb! Imperial Stout with 15 percent ABV from Prairie Artisan Ales in America, Liquid Confidence Imperial Stout, and Smoke On The Porter, Fire In The Rye American Porter from ToØl to their shelves. Prices range from RMB 100-200 per bottle.

Nali Patio's High Town, have also brought in some new beers on tap, including Tropical Pale Ale from Boulevard, IPA from Old Driver, and Watermelon Wheat Beer from Jing-A.

As for new breweries, Great Friend Outdoors Club just opened last weekend at 12 Fangjia, and features12 taps with with a mixture of local and domestic microbrews, such as Fumo IPA (RMB 48), Tengyun Wheat Ale (RMB 38) from Harvest, Film G Milk Stout (RMB 48), Tiaodong Who IPA (RMB 45) from Wuhan No. 18, Beijing Gose (RMB 45), NB Wheat (RMB 38), Vanilla Coffee Stout (RMB 48), Heifeweizen (RMB 38) from NBeer Pub, Osmanthus Honey Ale (RMB 38) from Shenyang Laotao, and Diaistic Cider (RMB 45). The 350sqm space also includes a small climbing wall and a nice terrace, which the team will use to hold seminars about outdoor activities in the near future.

If you happen to be in Shanghai this weekend, head to the annual Shanghai Craft Beer Festival at Jing'an Kerry Center (1515 Nanjing Xilu), July 22-23. Among the 100 beers in attendance, you’re likely to see a bunch of familiar faces given that Arrow Factory, Slow Boat, and Great Leap are heading down to celebrate. Other notable vendors include Taihu, Goose Island, Young Master, Bionic, Ballast Point, The Brew, Boxing Cat, Le Ble D’or, Ale Smith, Boulevard, Zeffer, Founders, Karl Strauss, Mornington, Cider Republic, Pitata, and Dr. Beer.

More stories by this author here.

Email: tracywang@thebeijinger.com
Twitter: @flyingfigure
Instagram: @flyingfigure

Photos: Tracy Wang, courtesy of the venues

We first noticed Yun Brew while walking to Burger Break last month for a giant avocado cheese burger and a strawberry milkshake. We're happy to report that this three-month-old brewpub is yet another promising addition to the burgeoning Xiaoyun Lu neighborhood. We were particularly impressed by Yun's 21 draft beers, made up of local and imported brews, as well as their in-house brews, all of which will easily attract many of the area's thirsty workers.

Yun is located towards the back of Xiaoyun Lu, alongside a Japanese bar and a steakhouse. Upon arrival, the first thing you'll notice in the brewpub's lush garden and its airy outdoor seating. Stepping inside, patrons are welcomed by four tanks, which amount to a 300-liter brewing system. There's also an al fresco area on the second floor.

The bar is located in the back, on the right, in front of a big blackboard presenting all of the 21 beers they have on tap, with six of their own: The True Friends Wheat, Silent of Lava Peat (6 percent ABV), The Spring Breeze Far Away Wheat, Black Hand Porter, Yun IPA, and No Problem Brown Ale.

Their domestic options, meanwhile, include Extra Pale Ale, Red Lager from Boxing Cat, along with a Cucumber Saison, Pumpkin Chai Porter, and Berliner Drop IPA from Taps. Among the imports are Belching Beaver Peanut Butter Milk Stout, a cider and pilsner from Moa, De Molen Heaven and Hell, Liefmans Fruitesse, Temple Anytime Pale Ale, and Fruili strawberry beer. The price of a pint ranges from RMB 45 to 88, which isn’t the cheapest in town by any means, but a flight of any four is RMB 68, and a flight of any six is RMB 98, which is quite reasonable.

We ordered a flight of six of their in-house brews, but were sad to be informed that The Spring Breeze Far Away Wheat was out of stock. The Black Hand Porter had good malty notes but tasted lean on the body. Then we tried their hoppy IPA, but both it and their No Problem Brown Ale had an off-putting flavor that reminded us of sanitizer (at least they are disinfected, right?).

Instead, we recommend you try the far superior Pumpkin Chai Porter (RMB 68 a pint) with its smooth texture and a strong, spicy flavor that we thoroughly enjoyed, in part because it reminded us of masala tea. Another highlight is the Belching Beaver Peanut Butter Milk Stout. At 5.3 percent ABV, it has a roasted coffee aroma, tastes of chocolate and peanut butter, and boasts a silky finish. It's not only a satisfying pint, but is also indulgent enough to double as a dessert (sorry, PB and J-lovers, there's no jelly in this brew).

To cater to those looking for a nearby lunch or dinner after a long day at the office, Yun also provides salads (RMB 36-48), pasta (RMB 28-45), and pizzas (RMB 38-85 for nine-inch, RMB 48-98 for 12-inch). If you are a party of carnivores, go for the roast lamb leg (RMB 358), roast pork chop (RMB 158), or sausage platter (RMB 158).

We tried the half black-peppered beef, half durian pizza (sure, not for everything, but we were curious!). The steak side of the pizza proved the favorite, as the meat comes well-seasoned and makes for a good accompaniment to the steaming-hot dough with its generous distribution of cheese. The durian pizza was sweet and didn’t have the strong, ripe smell that your nose is often subjected to in the grocery store, so don't be scared to give it a try.

We also enjoyed the prawn and avocado salad (RMB 48), featuring fresh lettuce, avocado, prawns, red beans, and corn. But the real winner was the popcorn chicken (RMB 42). Every little bite of jhuicy chicken was covered with a golden crust, seasoned with spices and served on a layer of arugula to give the illusion that it's healthy (though none of us touched that). The Thai-style chili sauce on side elevated this menu item all the more, making it especially great when coupled with a cold pint.

The fridge is also not lacking in interesting options, with some imports from Australian brewery Kaiju, Icelandic brewery Einstök, Italian brewery White Pony, and more. We look forward to come back and try them all in the near future.

The added warm and kind service certifies Yun as another strong addition to Xiaoyun Lu’s new thriving range of restaurants and bars, giving us more incentive to flee Sanlitun and investigate further north.

Yun Brew
Daily 11am-2pm. 15-40, Xiaoyun Dining Back Street, 15 Xiaoyun Lu, Chaoyang District (8069 9907)
蕴酿精酿餐吧：朝阳区霄云路15号霄云美食街后街15-40

More stories by this author here.

Email: tracywang@thebeijinger.com
Twitter: @flyingfigure
Instagram: @flyingfigure

Photos: Tracy Wang

The restaurant and bar strip northeast of the Shuangjing intersection is left reeling after a large group of officials temporarily shut down a number of local businesses in a series of raids made Thursday night.

Bars such as The Brick, Lily's, Ashen, Cheers and Charlie's were all affected in the sudden police action.

One source told the Beijinger that "every store" on "the entire street" were forced "to give away their point-of-sale" (POS) information to authorities, showing a photo of their business computer before it was confiscated.

Photos taken at the scene show dozens of uniformed police and black-suited teqin (special police) were on hand to enforce the police action, as were members of the chengguan (city enforcement). One witness estimated the police presence to include some 50 people.

The raids began around 8pm on Thursday with affected businesses owners warning that other establishments may be affected. However, by 9.20 the same night, a correspondent for the Beijinger reported that the entire street had become quiet and that the police presence had vanished, as though they were never there.

According to sources, the major focus for police was the removal of outdoor seating for each of the restaurants. When this condition was met by local business owners, the satisfied officials left the scene.

Local authorities have made their presence well known to Shuangjing business owners this summer.

Last month, in keeping with a city-wide government initiative on urban renewal, local business owners were forced to adhere to a municipal order that decided storefront signs must look more similar.

READ: Bye Bye Business: Pictures Show Favorite Hutong Haunts Before and After Bricking

After agreeing to "government plans to give all the signs a uniform appearance in an attempt to make them look better,"the Beijinger reported that Shuangjing F+B businesses had "dodged a bullet" by avoiding the "bricking over" that manyless fortunate hutong businesses were forced to endure.

In fact, the Shuangjing municipal government's crackdown on signs has been so fierce that they have become national news. Last week, numerous Chinese news outlets reported that Shuangjing police and chengguan dismantled a street sign for "Geyu Road" (葛宇路), a fake street name named after a local resident that was able to fool everyone — including Baidu Maps — for three whole years.

But although Thursday's raids were a source of worry for business owners, some local residents are pleased with the crackdown as the strip of venues that line the first floor of the compound have been a cause of complaints for neighbors living in the apartments above.

READ: Modernista, Mr Shi's, The Orchid Survive Baochao Hutong Renovations

With the outdoor seating removed, some people have written on WeChat that they can "finally get some sleep" now that the cause of many noise complaints has disappeared. Others quoted a Chinese proverb saying that when property owners work together, they can "move mountains." 

However, that's not the only complaint made by local residents, some of whom disagree with Thursday's police action.

"Those shitbums did f**k all," said one expat resident whose apartment unit is located above the exhaust of an unlicensed restaurant, causing continuous nuisance odors in his home. The resident told the Beijinger he had previously been working with local residents of the Tianzhi Jiaozi compound to lobby the district government to shut down venues without proper licenses.

More stories from this author here.

Twitter: @Sinopath 

Images: Weibo, WeChat

Wokipedia is a regular magazine column in which we introduce aspects of Chinese gastronomy, one letter at a time. This issue, 'W' gets the treatment.

… Wenchang chicken 文昌鸡 wenchang ji

The progenitor of the Hainan chicken rice served throughout Southeast Asia, Wenchang chicken is both a type of chicken and a chicken dish, both of which hail from the area around the city of Wenchang in Hainan Province. The bird is poached whole in a fragrant broth, leaving the skin luscious and gelatinous, and the meat juicy.

… wood ear 木耳 mu'er

It might sound like a debilitating skin condition, but wood ear mushrooms – auricularia auricula-judae – are actually a type of fungus. Wood ear mushrooms are popular in Chinese cuisine for their crunchy, jelly-like texture (which admittedly makes them rather an acquired taste). Having little flavor of their own, they are usually paired with strident flavors such as vinegar and chili. They are also a key ingredient in hot and sour soup.

… wosun 莴笋

Better known as celtuce (a portmanteau of celery and lettuce) in English, wosun is a type of lettuce primarily grown for its thick stem rather than its leaves. The stem is sliced and used in light stir fries or liangban(cold tossed) dishes. The fresh, slightly bitter taste of wosun is thought to stimulate the appetite.

… wotou窝头

If you’ve got a hankering for classic American cornbread, you can try and ease your cravings with one of these. A staple of northern Chinese cuisine, wotou are made with rough cornmeal mixed to a dough with a little water, which is then shaped into a cone shape (hence the name, which literally translates as “nest head”) and steamed. Although traditionally a peasant dish, it is said that Empress Dowager Cixi developed a taste for them when they were given to her for sustenance while she was fleeing from the Battle of Peking in 1900.

More stories by this author here.

Instagram: @gongbaobeijing
Twitter: @gongbaobeijing
Weibo: @宫保北京

Photo: nipic.com

Figs are one of the best late-summer fruits, second only to cherries in my personal rankings. While you may not necessarily associate figs with China, figs have been enjoyed fresh and dry in China for hundreds of years, with the most common Western cultivar, ficus carica, introduced to China sometime in the early Tang dynasty. Sichuan and Shandong are China's main fig-producing provinces, although they are increasingly being cultivated in Western Chinese provinces such as Xinjiang, as this 2016 China Daily article points out. 

READ: Making the Most of Cherry Season

Figs can usually be found at Sanyuanli Market all year round, but during late July to September they will start popping up at more and more stalls. 

The joy of fresh figs is that they are wonderfully versatile, equally happy alongside both sweet and savory ingredients. Niki Segnit's helpful book The Flavor Thesaurus lists figs as pairing well with chocolate, blue cheese, goat's cheese, cinnamon, mint, and foie gras. 

For an easy sweet-salty fig dish, cut a couple of figs into quarters, leaving them connected at the bottom. Stuff with a small piece of soft goat's cheese and press the quarters back together lightly, before wrapping each fig with a slice of prosciutto. Sprinkle with a little extra virgin olive oil and salt and pepper and then bake in a hot oven for 15-20 minutes. Drizzle with a little honey before serving. 

Alternatively, for an easy dinner party dessert, try this coconut and fig baked rice, which has the added benefit of being dairy and gluten free. 

Fig and coconut rice pudding
Translated and adapted from Elle à Table

• 200g short-grained rice (I used Cambodian short-grained fragrant rice)
• 500ml coconut milk
• 175g light brown sugar
• 8 eggs
• 6 figs, halved vertically (use the purplish variety for this, not the green ones)
• 1/2 tsp ground black pepper 
• Butter, for greasing the baking dish

Instructions

1. Bring a large pan of water to the boil and cook the rice for 3 minutes. Meanwhile, bring half of the coconut milk and 500ml water to the boil in another saucepan.
2. After 3 minutes, drain the rice and add to the pan with the coconut milk. Lower the heat and cook, stirring frequently, until tender, about 10-15 minutes (this will depend on your rice, check after about 10 minutes). Stir in 150g of sugar. Set the mixture aside to cool.
3. Heat the oven to 200℃ (390℉). Butter a large baking dish (approx. 30cm x 22cm)
4. Warm the coconut milk in a saucepan (do not boil). In another container, beat the eggs then slowly pour in the warmed coconut milk, beating continuously. Strain the coconut-egg mixture into the cooled rice and mix well, then transfer to the buttered baking dish.
5. Arrange the halved figs on top of the rice mixture and sprinkle over the black peppers and remaining sugar.
6. Bake for 30-40 minutes until set, turning down the heat if the pudding is browning too quickly. Good served warm or cold. 

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Instagram: @gongbaobeijing
Twitter: @gongbaobeijing
Weibo: @宫保北京

Photos: Pixabay, Robynne Tindall

If you have read our previous street eats blogs, you may know how obsessed we are with shengjianbao(生煎包), or pan-fried baozi. As one of the most common street foods (normally eaten for breakfast) in Shanghai and Zhejiang province for over the past century, they come both cheap and expensive thanks to their ubiquity, and that’s the charm of street eats – you don’t have to be a millionaire to enjoy the down-to-earth, enticing snacks.

Hidden in the busy basement of Shimao Shopping Mall among a dozen other food stalls – making for what is the liveliest floor in this otherwise run-of-the-mill Sanlitun shopping mall – Susongfu (苏松府) is laid out like many other Chinese fast food stalls: it's composed of several tables, a counter to order and pay at first, and an open kitchen running busily behind. 

Unlike Meiming'r Shengjian, which has several options of pan-fried bao fillings, including pork, shrimp, and cheese, as well as pan-fried wontons, Susongfu only stocks pan-fried pork baozi, making for, if nothing else, a quick selection process. For a very reasonable RMB 10, you get four steaming hot balls of dough and meat, making for a rendition that is RMB 2 more expensive than at Meiming'r Shengjian, not that that'll break the bank.

After carefully taking our first bite, the sweet-and-savory lava-like juice flooded out, just the way it should. The minced pork filling was impeccable, and the bottom of the morsels were fried to brown, and made of crunchy, sturdy bread, and featured a pinch of white sesame seeds and shallots to add even more flavor to the baozi.

Another must-try is the duck blood and vermicelli soup (鸭血粉丝汤, yā xiě fěnsī tāng, RMB 15), a traditional Nanjing dish featuring slabs of duck blood, vermicelli, dried and fried tofu, duck liver, and intestines, and pairs well with the pan-fried baozi. This rendition was seasoned with white pepper and spicy sesame oil to bring the flavor to another level, and offered a warm respite from a whole summer of bingeing on ice-cold drinks (i.e. beer).

Believe me: a tray of pan-fried baozi is the answer to everything. If it doesn’t fix your problems, get another tray and add a bowl of duck blood soup. Still not enough? Man, I really don't know what trouble you are in but you could also sing away the pain in the self-service karaoke stall (or maybe more like a cage?) two meters away from the restaurant once you're knee-deep in a self-induced food coma.

Susongfu has a second location on the fifth floor of the north zone of China World Mall. Oh, and whatever you do, don’t forget that you shouldn't ever dare to eat these little soup bombs in white, especially if you are not confident in your baozi-biting abilities.

Susongfu Shengjian
Daily 10am-8pm. B1, Shimao Shopping Mall, 13 Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang District (150 1142 3199)
苏松府生煎：朝阳区工体北路13号世贸工三B1

More stories by this author here.

Email: tracywang@thebeijinger.com
Twitter: @flyingfigure
Instagram: @flyingfigure

Photos: Tracy Wang

While there's never a shortage of art exhibits to choose from in Beijing, many reach a haughtiness that can be off-putting and inaccessible to the casual attendee. If, like me, you're intrigued by what galleries have to offer while also feeling too ill-informed to explore the scene every weekend, then photography exhibits may provide the perfect fix, offering accessibility that doesn't come at the expense of artistry.

Three such events – each showcasing works with intriguing concepts – are taking place soon at equally offbeat venues. Whether you like your photography made up of intimately personal closeups or outdoorsy panoramas, rural landscapes or urban dwellings, candid shots or abstract images, you're sure to find something you enjoy this weekend.

Until Jul 31, 9.30am-5.30pm, Crossroads Center: 'If the Body Could Talk' by Lyu Rui
Salacious as its title may sound, this exhibit's focus on the female form comes staunchly from a woman's perspective (rather than an exploitative one). Up-and-coming photographer Lyu Rui uses artful and black-and-white closeups of nude subjects that are meant to make the exhibit's attendees wonder, and attempt to answer, one grand thematic question: "How can women use a visual language to express their feelings and explore the world?"

July 22, 4-9pm, Ramo: 'The Vernissage' by Aluss
This one will please shutterbugs and high-brow art devotees alike. That's because Vass modifies his shots in such a colorful and playful way that has lead his peers to call him "China’s first stream-of-consciousness photographer." Hailing from Inner Mongolia, the burgeoning photographer trains his lens on grasslands, horses, and other bucolic scenes that exemplify China's rustic side. All the works on display will be available for purchase at what the coordinators insist is a very low cost.

July 23, 3pm, The Bookworm: 'People of Beijing' With Tan Siok Siok
This photo book captures hutong life from the vantage of Tan Siok Siok (pictured at top), a filmmaker, entrepreneur, author, and former executive producer for Discovery Channel Asia. These stark black-and-white images vividly convey alleyway living in all its gritty glory. In 2011 she made a name for herself with the documentary Twittamentary which was praised as much for the then-novel use of crowdfunding as for its content about social media interaction. Caravan and Gulu Bazz (formerly Cuju) founder Badr Benjelloun will moderate the talk.

More stories by this author here.
Email: kylemullin@truerun.com
Twitter: @MulKyle

Photos: Reuters, courtesy of the organizers

Linkin Park fans from around China are reacting in shock and disbelief to the sudden death of vocalist Chester Bennington in Los Angeles on Thursday. Bennington was 41.

The music of Linkin Park has been tremendously popular in China where the band has performed for thousands of fans. Linkin Park first performed in China in 2007, and would eventually channel their popularity with a cross-country tour in 2015 that saw the band play in Chongqing, Shenzhen, Nanjing, Shanghai, and Beijing, the only time they have performed in the Chinese capital (watch Linkin Park's live performance at the Workers' Stadium here).

Linkin Park is also well known in China from having their songs "What I've Done,""Iridescent," and "New Divide" featured in the well-received Transformers film franchise.

Linkin Park is so popular in China that they have an official Weibo account. And to reciprocate the appreciation of their Chinese fans, Linkin Park vocalist Mike Shinoda decorated the Beijing stage with Chinese knot decorations.

Bennington was especially appreciative of his Chinese fans, telling the Beijinger in a 2015 interview that he was looking forward to traveling in China.

"I’m most excited to have the opportunity to see more of China and visit all of the great cities that I have only heard about or seen on TV. That is really exciting to me," said Bennington, who had also said he was excited to sample the country's cuisine.

Chinese fans honored the Linkin Park singer with online tributes, with some demonstrating their love of the band's music by quoting it. The top comment on the most recent Linkin Park Weibo post is "Why is everything so heavy?" while another reads: "Your friends all plead for you to stay."

Dismayed by Bennington's sudden death, Chinese fans took to Weibo to express what the tragic news meant for them.

"The first album I ever bought was yours,"said one netizen. "You were standing confidently at the front, head held high. I can't believe what happened. Wish you peace in heaven." Another person wrote: "How many people were able to overcome their problem because of your encouragement? Why couldn't you do the same? Chester Bennington, the songs of Linkin Park are an integral part of youth, wish you find peace in heaven."

One person wrote: "I can't believe that my first time seeing them on July 26, 2015 at the concert in Beijing will also be my last time seeing them," while another said: "A voice has been silenced. I saw them perform four
times, but now there won't be a fifth."

Yet another person wrote: "I gave myself the goal to go attend a music concert before I turned 25 years. Having just turned 18 and finished by gaokao examinations, my heart is full of expectation. I thought that I would have the chance, would have the chance."

With news reports explaining that Bennington hanged himself in his home, some Chinese netizens talked about their own experiences with suicide.

"I was tormented by my stepmother so much in middle school that I wanted to kill myself, and it was your music that gave me the strength to keep living," said one person before asking: "Why did you have to leave us? You are my favorite musician. You are the only person whom I would go on Baidu and make countless searches. But now, I won't search for you anymore. Goodbye."

Some netizens wondered what this will mean for Linkin Park.

"Will there still be a Linkin Park? What will happen to Linkin Park afterwards? And then I think that this news will be hardest on Mike (Shinoda) ... Linkin Park without Chester is like a body without a backbone ... But I still hope that Mike will allow Linkin Park to continue, or at least the band will remind us of Chester. Time heals all wounds."

Yet another person wrote: "Even though he made this choice, he will be happy. Let him go in peace."

More stories from this author here.

Twitter: @Sinopath 

Images: China Daily, Twitter, Beijing, Weibo 

Chinese authorities have explained that Canadian singer Justin Bieber will not be allowed to perform in China because he is a bad influence.

The Beijing Municipal Bureau of Culture made the explanation on its official website, saying that it hoped Bieber would change his ways as he "matured."

The bureau was responding to a question made on July 16 in which someone asked for clarification as to why an application by a singing talent who has won as many awards as Bieber was rejected.

On Tuesday, the bureau responded by saying it agreed that Bieber is in fact a "very talented singer," but also noted that Bieber is a "controversial, young, foreign singer," something the bureau can't overlook. 

"In order to properly maintain order in the domestic market and to purify the environment of performances here, it is inappropriate to introduce entertainers with poor behavior," wrote the bureau.

The bureau also said it hoped Bieber would continue to improve his words and acts as he matures in order to become a singer that is truly well-liked by his fans. 

Bieber's reputation as a "bad boy" is well known throughout the world, summarized by the Global Times as "racing cars, taking drugs, and smashing eggs." And although his most famous international blunder may have been writing that Anne Frank"would have been a belieber," Bieber is infamous in China for something else.

After coming to China during in 2013 when he was seen being carried up the Great Wall of China to make a music video, Bieber went to Japan where he took a photo at the Yasukuni Shrine, a contentious place where a number of war criminals are buried. After stirring up outrage online, Bieber deleted the photo and posted an apology. "I was mislead to think the shrines were only a place of prayer," Bieber wrote. "To anyone I have offended I am extremely sorry."

As if to demonstrate he didn't understand why people were upset, Bieber ended his apology by saying, "I love you China and I love you Japan."

At the time, it seemed as though Bieber's apology was accepted. 

Chinese foreign ministry spokesperson Qin Gang said he hoped Bieber had left Yasukuni with "a clear understanding of Japan's history of invasion and militarism, and of the source of Japan's militarism."

More stories from this author here.

Twitter: @Sinopath 

Images: Celebuzz. Xinmin

Beijing is the latest Chinese city to open a staffless convenience store as the country looks to leapfrog its way into a service economy.

With no cash register on its premises, all purchases made at the Xiaomai convenience store in Beijing's Haidian District are done with electronic payment systems like Alipay or WePay. 

And although the store employs one staff member responisible for restocking its shelves with new products, the 24-hour convenience store is designed to be a self-serve operation free of any human contact.

READ: A Guide for the Convenience Store Gourmand

Located in the YOU+ international youth community center located near Suzhouqiao neighborhood, the staffless store isn't just dependent on electronic payment, but takes the concept of the digital avatar to an entirely new level.

In order to gain access to the store, users must register their social media profile and a scan of their face with the store's computer system; only upon verification will a person be allowed to enter.

After entering, the store reminds you that it knows who you are by prominently displaying your social media profile name and avatar upon a store screen.

To make purchases, the customer uses their own phone to scan QR codes of the products they want to purchase, each displayed on the shelf below it. After gathering all of their purchases, users will pay for their purchases using a mobile wallet payment system like Alipay or WeChat.

To keep tabs on customers, the 20-square-meter store is equipped with six surveillance cameras. And, in a twist, customers are not allowed to take photographs in the store, although one guy certainly did.

Xiaomai also has stores in the Beijing suburbs of Shunyi, Changping, Tongzhou, Daxing, and Fangshan.

Beijing joins an already long list of cities that have opened completely automated convenience stores this year alone. AuChan opened its tiny Bingo Box convenience store in Shanghai, Alibaba teamed up with Amazon Go to open Tao Coffee in Hangzhou, while Guangzhou saw the opening of the staffless F5 Future convenience store.

READ: Would You Line Up For 2 Hours to Decorate a Convenience Store Ice Cream Bar?

For many people, "convenience" is using the Internet to buy things without having to walk to a store, so there must be a good reason for have customers serve themselves. And this is it:

At any time of day, a Suzhouqiao resident can now walk down to their neighborhood convenience store to buy instant noodles at a slightly inflated price without ever needing to speak or interact with anyone. Yes, ours is an enlightened society in which a service economy allows us to be free of any human contact.

READ: Apple Pay Launches Its Largest, Weirdest Promotion in China

Convenience has arrived at last for Beijing customers, for we should expect nothing less when regarding the products we buy that are specifically-designed to make our lives easier. And considering all the trans fats found in convenience store bakeries, we imagine future developments will bring us "self-serve medical treatment kiosks" to balance out our needs.

More stories from this author here.

Twitter: @Sinopath 

Images: TakeFoto, Weibo

Back in the simpler times of 90s pop ballads, nobody could hit, let alone hold, the lofty high notes attained by beloved diva Whitney Houston. And yet rising star Carole Stennett pays a more than moving and effective tribute to the late icon’s songs in The BodyguardMusical, a stage rendition of the hit 1992 movie in which Houston starred and sang, and which Beijingers can see at Dongsi Shitiao's Poly Theatre from July 22-30.

This stage version – a blockbuster since its 2012 West End debut that has gone on to have major runs around the world – features all the classic songs from the film including, of course, “I Will Always Love You.” Other Houston highlights include songs like "Queen of the Night,""So Emotional,""One Moment in Time," and others. Its live treatment of those movie musical moments — from the bestselling soundtrack of all time — lead the Sunday Mirror to call it "the hottest ticket in town" and the Daily Mail to declare it a "runaway gold-plated musical hit."   

A reviewer at Monstagigz was fond of how this stage version differed from the silver screen original in numerous scenes, including one that depicts the protagonist having fun at karaoke. And while that writer said Stennett was still settling into the lead role in comparison to her predecessors (X Factor winner Alexandra Burke and Beverley Knight, who was nominated for Best Takeover In A Role in the WhatsOnStage awards in 2014), he still called the current star a talented singer and dancer with clear potential to soon do so "in this top drawer feel good musical with added jeopardy." When the play stopped in Canada, a critic at the Toronto Starfawned over its "delicious excess, world-class singing" that helps the production "overcome plot issues," a sentiment furthered by a reviewer who saw its Sydney run and called it unintentionally funny and corny at times, not to mention overly simple in terms of story, but never less than entertaining in a shamelessly campy, not to mention the "tonne of fabulous musical numbers to get to."

And that's really why we'd be lining up for this play anyway, right? So be sure to do your vocal warmups and get ready to sing along with those neverending, heartwrenching high notes as this hit musical makes its Beijing debut.

See The Bodyguard Musical at Poly Theatre from July 22-30, 7.30-10pm. Tickets are RMB 180-1,000. Call 6500 1188 ext 5126/5127 for more information or click here.

Photo courtesy of the organizers

Though the signage of Shuangjing's Tianzhi Jiaozi strip is still in the midst of an extensive (and quite strange) revamp, business is still going strong behind the toiling laborers at the entryways. Newly opened bar and restaurant 789 (qībājiǔin Chinese, though it also has an English moniker: A-Life) is an indication of the strip's staying power — a joint with on-point cocktails and food that will keep locals coming, despite the ebb and flow of the area's popularity in Beijing's nightlife scene.

We started with a litchi martini, a syrupy-sweet, tundra-temperature chilled drink that instantly staved off the summer heat and tickled our tastebuds. Better still: its rock-bottom price (for Beijing at least) of RMB 40. Sadly, this was one of the few truly original cocktails on offer, though other options like the cosmopolitan, pina colada, gin and tonic, apple martini, cucumber gin and tonic, and more all stuck to the oh-so-reasonable RMB 40-50 range.

The venue's food is similarly to the point: eight types of pizzas (varying from RMB 48-98; all 10-inch), five varieties of salad (priced between RMB 35-48), a half dozen kinds of sausage (RMB 38-48 for singles like Nurembery, beef, or chicken, depending on which one you pick; or try them all in the RMB 138 platter), and beef or lamb skewers (RMB 68 for a platter). The pizzas have a simple homestyle quality, coming in square slices on crusts that are chewy and delightfully nourishing, though by no means exceptional (especially when compared to the plethora of gourmet pies to be found at Beijing's various Italian eateries). That being said, 789 does have some fairly creative pie varieties on offer like the Korean spicy beef (RMB 68) and mashed potato (RMB 48), along with more standard types like margherita and diavola (both RMB 48).

The spicy Korean beef pizza we tried was a success, thanks to the gentle heat of the meaty topping, along with some leafy greens and corn to balance the proceedings out with lighter, crispier elements (yes, we are getting used to corn on pizza after all the Beijing restaurants we've frequented). While the cocktail and food options are somewhat limited, more variety can be found in the beer fridge, which has dozens of imported bottles at about the same prices you'd find at Heaven Supermarket (though falling short of that popular bars famously vast range).

789's decor is also a winner, featuring exposed scaffolding and piping that give it an industrial vibe, especially behind the bar. A vibrantly colored mural on the wall opposite the bar depicts a galloping stallion and stately statues, while the seating is comfortablly sturdy without being overly cushy. There are a few nooks with sofas on the second floor, with windows overlooking the street. Another bonus is the staff, who are prompt and very friendly.

All those elements add up to a highly satisfying, if not overly memorable expierience. More distinct Shaungjing venues like Plan B, Root Pop, and Bronze need not worry about losing throngs of customers to 789, but anyone living in the area and looking for a solid option to start their evenings off will certainly enjoy this new bar and restaurant.

789 (A-Life)
Daily, 4pm-2am. 2-20, Tianzhijiaozi, Dongbai Street
朝阳区天之骄子底商2-20

More stories by this author here.
Email:kylemullin@truerun.com
Twitter: @MulKyle

Photos: Kyle Mullin

Almost a year to the day a woman was mauled to death by a tiger, another visitor to Beijing Badaling Wildlife World has again willfully disobeyed park regulations inside its carnivorous animal enclosure.

At around 10am on Saturday, a stopped black SUV was seen with a black sun bear next to it, standing up on its haunches and extending its head inside the open window of the driver's side.

As seen in the video taken by the driver in the following car from behind, the sun bear is reaching so far into the black SUV that its head is not visible. One of the bear's legs is perched on the vehicle's running boards, and at one point the bear is even able to lift itself off the ground completely.

From the perspective of the camera, we can't see what's going inside the black SUV with its tinted windows. However, it appears the occupants of the vehicle are feeding the bear when at one point a sausage flies out the window.

Approximately 10 seconds into the video, the black SUV drives away, at which point the bear drops down and begins eating food on the ground below where the black SUV's driver window had been.

Liu Weishi, a spokesperson for the park, said no injuries had been reported by visitors that day.

Liu said that no park patrols witnessed the incident, and said they have yet to confirm it.

Badaling Park rules stipulate that visitors are forbidden to open their car windows or doors when traveling through its "car safari" area. However, these rules have been routinely been broken throughout the past year by visitors to a variety of wild animal parks.

In March, an entire family left their car to get a closer look at the carnivorous animals across a moat at the Beijing Wild Animal Park in Daxing (shown above). The month before, black bears were seen extending their paws inside the rear window of a white vehicle at Badaling Wild Animal Park.

Breaking park rules can have deadly consequences. A man named Zhang was killed by a tiger in January at a Ningbo animal park when he walked past warning signs and into a tiger enclosure instead of paying the 120 yuan admission fee. But the most sensational fatality was the July 23 incident in which a woman left her vehicle inside the Badaling tiger enclosure (shown below), leading to one fatality. 

The Badaling tiger mauling survivor, Ms. Zhou, has recovered from her ordeal and wants USD 2 million in compensation, saying that she wasn't properly warned of the park's dangers.

Zhou claims that a culture of rampant victim blaming has ruined her life in the wake of the accident, saying "People’s words were perhaps scarier than the mouth of a tiger."

According to reports, Badaling has added more warning signs since last year's fatality. However, even though feeding the park's carnivorous animals is forbidden, snacks like sausages and popcorn are still available for sale at the park entrance. 

Liu said the snacks are meant to be shared with the park's smaller animals, which don't have any feeding regulations.

Badaling visitors are also allowed to feed the park's elephants, which were responsible for trampling an employee to death last year. 

If at this point you're considering making the trip yourself, maybe you should reconsider in light of the "circus shows" put on by the park. 

Mang Ping, founder of the NGO Beijing Zoo Watch, told the Beijinger in 2014 that the performances at the Badaling park were some of the worst examples of animal cruelty she has seen in Beijing.

More stories from this author here.

Twitter: @Sinopath 

Images: QQ News, Miaopai,

Considering the poor quality of domestic films, China's film industry falls woefully short of the Hollywood blockbusters that regularly win the lion's share of the country's box office. And yet, there's a film being shown in Chinese theaters at this moment that is completely unlike any Chinese film you've ever seen in your life.

We here at the Beijinger haven't yet seen the animated film Dahufa (大护法), but we're willing to recommend it as a unique Chinese film, the likes of which we'll never see again.

How can we be so sure? This is the plot synopsis of Dahufa from Baidu, and it does not disappoint in the least:

"Peanuttown" is a small backwater town on the fringes of the Kingdom of Yiwei, an ignored place on its frontier. But despite its beauty, a hidden danger lurks as evident by the enormous black peanut floating in the sky above the village. In searching for his long-lost prince, Dahufa of the Yiwei Kingdom has come to this strange town. The residents that live here look exactly like peanuts; their faces each have two eyes and a mouth, but these are "fake eyes and mouths" that are stuck onto their faces. As a result, they are sluggish and stupid. They don't know where they're from, but instead live in a mechanical and submissive way. These residents are against all foreign things, and are numb and ignorant. But whenever these residents grow a strange mushroom from their bodies, they are executed by the town's guards. In trying to escape the murderous clutches of the guards, Dahufa encounters the prince as well as gets drawn into an epic story about desire.

Just in case your eyebrows aren't planted above your forehead, let's reiterate: Dahufa is a Chinese film. Made in China, right here in Beijing and Tianjin. For a Chinese audience. That was approved by Chinese censors. And, that's the story they're using.

But it's not just the choice of subject matter that is setting this film apart from its peers. Dahufa goes to great length to characterize the world of Peanuttown as a dystopia, and they do it through brutal violence.

The people of Peanuttown are routinely subjected to violence from its authoritative rulers. As seen in the film's trailer, blood is spilled, heads are decapitated, and firing squads execute rows upon rows of Peanuttownresidents. In fact, the film is so violent that it has self-imposed a "PG-13" rating to prevent young children from watching it.

Violence on its own is not something to be praised, but where Dahufa really shines is using violence and horror to paint an oppressive mood. The people of Peanuttown are depicted as haunting figures with detachable eyes and mouths; the lack of empathy afforded to these characters make their gory on-screen deaths seem all the more shocking.

Dahufa appears to take its inspiration from Hayao Miyazaki's 1997 opus Princess Mononoke, especially when considering its horror and violence. But as with many Chinese films, we detect from the trailer a strain of existentialism that appears left over from French New Wave cinema.

Dahufa currently enjoys an 8.1 rating on Douban from almost 50,000 reviews. Its top-rated comment reads in part, "How did this film ever get approved? Is SARFT blind?" Meanwhile, NetEase called Dahufa a "trailblazer" for adult animated films in China while another internet critic wryly called it a piece of social art crossed between "what you understand" and "what you don't need to understand."

We wish we'd be able to give you our own opinion on the film, but there's one last thing you should know about Dahufa: it is being massacred at the Chinese box office. 

After just four days of release, Dahufa has only managed to earn 31.8 million yuan whereas another bland retelling of the Monkey King has managed to earn 10 times that amount in the same time. If it hasn't already, Dahufa will quickly disappear from Chinese theaters, so if you want to see a unique Chinese film, give Dahufa a chance. 

And if you want one more reason to watch this film, then you should know that the people who made this movie are complete badasses.

Instead of the usual tagline, the message in small print on the film's poster reads: "Thanks so much to all the people who made things difficult for us." If this film was this difficult to make, it really deserves an audience.

Check out the film's trailer below (Cantonese version here):

And here's a weird music video for an equally weird movie:

More stories from this author here.

Twitter: @Sinopath 

Images: Baidu

Bordering China’s southern provinces of Yunnan and Guangxi, Vietnam’s place in Asia has not only been molded by its mammoth sister to the north, which occupied it almost continuously for over a thousand years between 111BC and 939AD, but also by modern French imperialist aspirations, and of course, the scourge and ultimate failure of the Vietnam War.

These attempts at control have etched themselves physically into the Southeast Asian country’s long, inverted question mark of a border. They have also had a hand in creating a national psyche that is heavily indebted to the unwritten, interpersonal rules of Confucianism, as well as a rightful sense of pride from repeatedly fending off the world’s crusaders. Coupled with an equator-bound climate, Vietnam’s capital of Hanoi (flights approximately RMB 2,000) – arguably the more conservative, historical, and rough-around-the-edges rival to the business-oriented, southern city of Ho Chi Minh City – can be explored in a few days and makes for a frenetic and intoxicating destination when compared to Beijing’s increasingly curtailed verve.

At the heart of Hanoi sits the jumbled Old Quarter, the frantic heart of the city’s tourist trade (souvenir stands, hotels, travel companies abound) but also a heady mix of restaurants, cafés, temples, shops and markets, bringing tourists and locals together in a haze of dust and heat. Just exploring the Old Quarter and its narrow, humid alleyways lined with rickety colonial-tinged buildings will easily enthrall for a whole day, the intensity never subduing thanks to the infamous and ceaseless swaths of motorbikes battling for every inch of tarmac.

Just south, Hoan Kiem Lake allows you to catch your breath while taking in some favorite Vietnamese pastimes, a few of which will be familiar and include Vietnamese dama square dancing, jianzi, and leisurely lakeside gossiping and pontificating. This stretch is also home to the Thang Long Water Puppet Theater, where puppeteers, semi-submerged in water, perform centuries-old folk tales from behind the cover of a screen using animals, people, and dragons on horizontal sticks. As fun as the soggy and pyrotechnic performance is, the action is almost upstaged by the accompanying live band, and specifically, the alien and enchanting sustained notes of the dan bau, a traditional single-stringed and vibrato-laden plucked instrument that substitutes as something of the aural equivalent of the Theremin of the East.

Wind your way down to Ho Chi Minh’s Mausoleum via Hanoi’s train track, which divides the city but not enough to stop the brave from building their houses on either side, making for a twice-daily white-knuckle wall hug as the massive locomotive chugs through. Entry into the mausoleum itself, the resting place for the much-aggrandized father of Vietnam’s communist independence movement, may not entice unless you enjoy the physical embodiment of the half-wax, half-man purgatory state in which Mao has similarly found himself transfixed.

Nevertheless, he attracts thick crowds of citizens wanting to show their reverence. Conversely, the adjoining grounds of Ho Chi Minh’s preserved stilt house and palace are much less macabre. The former is a beautiful and envy-inducing open-air wooden structure from which Ho Chi Ming used to work, while the latter is an eyecatchingly brilliant canary yellow French colonial-style lesson in decadence, but which sadly cannot be entered.

To learn more about the intruder forces that Ho Chi Minh spent his life rallying against, you need look no further than Hoa Lo Prison, dubbed the Hanoi Hilton, a key structure in Vietnam’s 21st-century battles. First built by the French in 1896 to house Vietnamese political prisoners, the prison later cycled through the hands of the Americans during the Vietnam War, before it was recaptured by the Vietnamese and in turn used to jail American POWs (putting up its most famous resident, John McCain).

One thing that links all of the prison’s reiterations are the dire conditions and dark and dank cavern-like rooms its captives had to endure for years, to even the sewer system, which afforded a way for inmates small, crafty, and “lucky” enough to escape.

For something a little less oppressive, put aside time to wonder the thorough collection of the Hanoi Museum of Fine Art, which spans the last 2,000 years and is a strong visual reminder of China’s influence on the country over the ages. That’s not to say, however, that techniques in lacquer, wood, and painting weren’t adopted locally, the Vietnamese providing their own rich and striking tack.

If you want to flee the city, there are two convenient options depending on whether you’re after a water or land adventure, with respectively, Halong Bay to the east and Sapa to the north.

Halong Bay

Halong Bay Defined by its high density of limestone karsts – topography similar to China’s Yangshuo – the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Halong Bay is a two-hour bus ride from Hanoi and is almost as famous for the iconic fleets of red-sailed junk boats that wind through its peaks as it is for the stunning landscape. If you choose your cruise tactically (they’re sold throughout Hanoi) it’s easy to find one that avoids the crowds, and many even offer a night on an island (approximately RMB 600 all-in) rather than a boat, allowing you to unwind at your own pace and even extend your stay.

Sapa

Sapa Heading inland from Hanoi, take a night bus to the sleepy town of Sapa for an altogether different jaunt. Alighting from the bus, weary and red-eyed, minority women in colorful woven clothing are waiting to ambush travelers and promote their homestay. Once you’ve settled on a price (approximately RMB 200 per night, including meals and guide services) you’ll start your five-hour hike out of the dusty and chaotic center of town and up into the mountains. Leaving the sound of demolition trucks and rapid development behind in the valley, the hills open up to unveil a rich tapestry of fields, either intricately layered for rice terraces or divided into neat plots for the cultivation of tea and corn, providing locals with their other dominant form of income. The homestays themselves vary depending on how much money has been put aside to renovate, and let’s just say that I was conflicted upon hearing that my host’s house was so modern because the last one was washed away.

During your stay, you’ll be treated to simple but wholesome home cooked meals to fuel the hours of hiking you’ll accomplish each day, traversing the nearby fields and rivers. The eternally snotty-nosed and pants-less children are also an unending source of entertainment, digging through the watery fields for tadpoles, climbing trees, or in some cases even tending to their adopted pet owls. What’s also striking is the villagers’ general English proficiency, having quickly picked up tourism’s tongue through daily interactions. This ease of communication, when coupled with the secluded nature of Sapa, adds another layer of depth to the experience given that the women who sit at the helm of this largely a matriarchal society are happy to chat about their daily lives with curious guests.

Granted, Vietnam is significantly more tourist-oriented than China is ever likely to be, which comes with its downsides (ceaseless haggling and undertones of aggression at times being but two) but the sheer vibrancy of life and varied sights (and let’s not forget the food) make it an invigorating sojourn down south, as well as the closest thing China has to a little, feisty sister.

More stories by this author here.

Email: tomarnstein@thebeijinger.com
WeChat: tenglish_
Instagram: @tenglish__

Photos: Tom Arnstein

Given the number of bricked-up businesses and crackdowns on long-running favorites, simply running a restaurant seems like no small feat in Beijing these days, let alone enduring the capital’s endless changes over decades. Yet Lee Ping Ping and Kim Loh have done just that, and more.

Today the couple – who hail from Kuala Lumpur and recently opened a new branch of their Malaysian-style Nyonya Kitchen in the new China World Mall – look back in near awe at all the tumult they’ve witnessed after 25 years in Beijing’s restaurant scene.

“The biggest change of all is the purchasing power of the local Chinese,” says Kim, who watched throngs of curious lao Beijing line up to buy takeaway roast chicken from their small outlets in the early 1990s, only to see those customers become worldly patrons perusing Nyonya’s current menu at China World Mall. He adds: “I’m so happy that the average standard of living is going up, but these spenders are now also much more demanding.”

He draws out the a’s in demanding for emphasis, as a playful grin crosses his rotund, jolly face. The more reserved Lee adjusts her glasses but nods in agreement, saying that she and her husband have long been up to that challenge, because they strived to establish strong customer service at Nyonya’s original location in Lido when it first opened in 2000.

At the time, it was a humble courtyard restaurant that prepared homey Malaysian nyonya baba-style dishes for Beijing’s then fledgling Southeast Asian community, along with numerous foreigners and some curious domestic Chinese patrons.

Nyonya’s cozy initial setup couldn’t have been further removed from the circumstances that brought Kim and Lee to Beijing in the first place. Before going on to start their own successful small business, they both worked as accountants. Kim’s company sent him and his family to China to help with major investments in 1991, including the opening of a Shakey’s Pizza chain branch near Wangfujing. Just as that project was reaching completion, the entire venture was shut down as a result of Oriental Plaza’s acquisition of the space.

Kim recalls: “We came, spent almost two years building this three-story restaurant from scratch, and then they told us: ‘The land on which you stand has been taken over by another group.’” His superiors then asked Kim and his family to come back to Malaysia and begin another assignment. But he declined because he and Lee “were seeing the way China was developing, and it was so interesting.” So he quickly snagged another accounting job here. Yet he didn’t feel finished with the restaurant game, either. Despite the failure of the Shakey’s Pizza branch, in their spare time, he and Lee opened their own takeout roast chicken business on Huan Jie, which is now Dongsi Shitiao.

Kim still remembers how Beijingers had so little living space at the time, picking up a roast chicken to reheat at home was convenient and novel. Lee smiles while remembering how “during festivals, the queue would go right around the corner.” At the business’ peak, they had 20 such small outlets opened across town.

However, in 2002, China began opening up more quickly, leading to new Walmarts and Carrefours that sold roast chicken and much more, quickly rendering Lee and Kim’s literal mom-and-pop shops obsolete. The couple had more sustained success after turning their roast chicken outlet in Lidu into a sit down Malaysian restaurant, the first proper Nyonya Kitchen.

After that Lido Nyonya restaurant took off, the couple opened another branch in the basement of the China World Mall, which became an even bigger hit thanks to the throngs of CBD office workers hankering after something different for lunch. While the couple spent 2006-2010 in Australia’s Melbourne for their children’s education, they decided to return to Beijing after their young ones graduated in order to get back to running Nyonya Kitchen. And though the subsequent opening of their Taiyanggong branch only lasted a few years before they pulled the plug (Kim says the market there wasn’t yet developed enough), the recent move from the basement of the old China World to the fifth floor of that glitzy new mall is a sign of Nyonya’s staying power. That latest branch proved even more of a family affair than its predecessors, thanks to their son Christopher’s involvement in the choosing and making of the modern décor.

Lee says they were happy to return to Beijing and try their luck in both Taiyanggong and the China World Mall, but not for the reasons one might expect. “Australia was pretty quiet for us, compared to here,” she says, adding: “We didn’t miss the restaurant, I think we missed Beijing, because the city is so vibrant.”

This article first appeared in the July/August issue of the Beijinger.

More stories by this author here.
Email: kylemullin@truerun.com
Twitter: @MulKyle
WeChat: 13263495040

Photos: Uni You, Nyonya Kitchen

China’s rich heritage is clearly embodied in its language. Learning Mandarin (putonghua) is neither an easy feat nor for the faint of heart, but luckily Beijing has a plethora of Chinese language schools and centers that offer a wide range of programs, courses, and classes. The difference among those choices is often the approach taken to learning the language and is often the deciding factor as to whether students, and even teachers, praise or deride the learning environment.

Both the Costa Rican Embassy and managers at the Italian airline Alitalia have used emerging educational company Dongyou (Beijing) Education Consulting to improve their Chinese language skills and further understand Chinese culture. Mickey Liu and Shirley Wu founded Dongyuan in 2016 to provide a quality, fun, language-focused cultural learning experience that breaks from the more strenuous means favored at other language schools across the city.

Dongyuan’s offices are located in the Dongzhimen area and offer reading and writing classes, HSK training and preparation, as well as tuition in business and tourism Chinese across all levels of the language learning spectrum. Although a bulk of the services is enterprise-based and focuses on collective training and consultation services, Dongyuan also offers one-on-one and group classes (in-person or online).

The school customizes the learning experience according to the student's needs and current Chinese language ability. The curriculum and customization system was developed by a team of professional teachers who each had more than two years work experience in order to create, “an interesting and effective learning environment for students,” according to Liu.

“The teachers are great. I have worked with two of them and they do a great job planning the type of class you need based on what you personally would want to achieve.  They try their best to accommodate your needs and learning rhythm,” said Grace, a current student who hails from Mexico.

One of the distinctive approaches that they employ is the use of cultural activities as an additional teaching tool to supplement the language. We spoke to founder Liu about four of their cultural activities and benefits of each.

Cultural Festivals Celebration
The school prides itself on having students from diverse backgrounds. These group celebrations create the perfect opportunity to learn new words associated with each holiday, including the historical context, local interpretation, and an appreciation for diversity. Understanding the proper ways of celebrating festivals and important holidays gives the students the added bonus of learning about a culture through fun.

“Celebrating different festivals is a good way to understand and draw comparisons and contrasts between Chinese and foreign cultures and traditions,” Liu says.

Local Traditional Culture Immersion
Part of China’s rich heritage is its traditions, which range across topics as far reaching as numbers, colors, zodiac signs, music, and of course, food. Beijing is famous for one food in particular, Peking duck, which having once been confined to the royal kitchens, can now be found in abundance not only in Beijing but around the world.

Eating Peking duck is not only a delicious pastime; it allows students to practice their ordering skills, food adjectives, and learn about the historical context associated with this delicacy.

Of course, this isn’t the only traditional activity that the school enjoys exposing their students to. Liu says, “We also take students to see Peking opera, taste traditional snacks, and so on, so that students get to learn more about Beijing, the origins of these things, and talk about them.”

Historical Attractions Visits
Forty-eight historical Chinese sites – 37 cultural, eight natural, and three cultural and natural – rank on UNESCO’s World Heritage List as of 2015, placing China second-highest in the total number of heritage sites overall, behind only Italy. Visiting each of the numerous heritage sites in Beijing provides a valuable lesson that allows students to learn about the traditional Chinese characters associated with each site. They also serve as the perfect backdrop for students’ vocabulary building and increasing knowledge surrounding China’s rich history.

“Historical sites offer insight into the socio-economic and living standards of ancient China, a topic that is of interest to many of our foreign students,” Liu adds.

Theme Game Entertainment
Every culture in the world has ways to pass the time that are often deemed interesting, a little bizarre, or downright gross. Dongyuan isn’t one to be left out when it comes to having their own fun through games. The school often picks themed games from both Chinese and foreign cultures that can be used to teach students about the language and culture but in a fun way. Games are a great way to break the monotony of the traditional classes and can make it easier for students to remember words through association. Teachers are trained in making the games fluid and fun, and allow for the highest level of understanding.

Grey from the Ukraine says, “Liu is an excellent teacher, and even better, a good person. During our lessons, I feel as though I’m talking to a friend. That makes time fly really fast, and I never get tired, and it aids learning. I improve every day while having fun.”

Mandarin Monday is sponsored by Sanfine International Hospital. 

This post is paid for by Dongyuan Education Consulting.

Photos courtesy of Dongyuan Education Consulting

Beijing officially implemented a new plan to tame the city's oversaturation of share bikes by limiting their parking to designated zones that will be policed by an "electric fence." But, there's just one problem: no consequences exist for violators who fail to comply.

Last Tuesday saw the the capital officially roll out 37 specially-designated parking zones for some 3,700 share bikes in its Chongwenmen neighborhood after prohibiting their parking in other high-traffic areas.

Each designated parking zone is embedded with an electronic device that can sense the presence of a nearby share bike via its GPS tracker, the same sensor that allows users to find share bikes on their phone. With the number of bike-sharing companies in China continuing to grow (for most), the electric fence can be used with any share bike.

A Beijing News reporter demonstrated the effectiveness of the new share bike parking zones by parking an Ofo bicycle both inside and outside the mandated area. In both cases, the reporter was correctly notified as to whether or not he had parked correctly through the share bike's app, a service also available to users via text message.

READ: Massive Success of Sharebikes Causes Equally Massive Headaches

But even though the system can properly determine if users are parking their share bike in accordance with local regulations, it doesn't really care if they do or not. So although users stand to be rewarded with extra credits for abiding by the law, they will suffer no consequences for not doing so.

A member of Dongcheng's traffic association admitted that there are no ramifications for share bike users who park outside the designated zone at the present time.

Chongwenmen is a busy part of Beijing where residents use some 3,000 share bikes on a daily basis. If this test program is deemed to be successful, the electric fencing for share bike parking is expected to be implemented throughout Beijing.

READ: An End to Bike-Clogged Sidewalks? Shared Cycle Parking Spaces Pop Up in Chaoyang

Other Chinese news outlets aren't as impressed with the new program. China Daily visited a part of Sanlitun that had set up designated parking, only to find it mostly unused. And after having successfully parked, the China Daily reporter suggested that waiting for confirmation takes up an inconvenient amount of time.

This past spring, Beijing's Xicheng District was the first to ban shared cycle parking from some of its streets while Dongcheng followed by banning them from 600 public spaces. However, the introduction of electric fencing was met with resistance from city residents due to their "small size."

Bike sharing has been a boom industry in China with its expansion to the UK deemed a success as one of China's "New Four Great Inventions." And yet, share bikes have been a hassle for Beijing residents, taking up so much public space that pedestrians are forced to flee sidewalks in some areas, choosing to share the road with vehicular traffic. Besides overwhelming bus stations, share bikes have also been criticized for blocking pathways constructed for the visually-impaired as well as cluttering space at its famous landmarks.

More stories from this author here.

Twitter: @Sinopath 

Images: Weibo (1), BJ News 

Our Events Watch series aims to highlight happenings that aren't focused on alcohol and drinking, but instead take a more educational or productive approach. Events include comedy, talks, networking events, markets, dinners and more.

Monday, July 24

Beginner Swing Dance Lessons
Want to learn something fun, active, and different? Join these beginner swing dance lessons at Beixinqiao's Yue Space and learn all the basics you need to know to swing. Today's class acts as a free trial class, at which point attendees can stick around for the dance party, beginning at 9.30pm. 8.30-9.30pm. Free. Yue Space
 

Tuesday, July 25

China's Polar Diplomacy: No Longer on Ice
Marc Lanteigne, a senior lecturer in Chinese, East Asian, and Polar Affairs at the Centre for Defence and Strategic Studies (CDSS) at Massey University, New Zealand joins The Bookworms to discuss China's expansion in both Polar Regions over the past few years. Scientific interests, including the role of climate change and how it may be affecting China itself, are still taking the lead in Chinese diplomacy at both poles, yet there is also a growing concern in circumpolar economics and politics, especially as both regions have gained more international attention. In short, China is now seeking to be understood internationally as a polar player, and a partner for new initiatives in both regions. Thus, a major question is how the traditional polar powers, including the United States, Europe, and Russia, will react to China’s expanded diplomacy in the Far North and Far South. 7.30pm. RMB 50. The Bookworm

Rhythm of Youth: The Asian Youth Orchestra in Concert
Richard Pontzious appears to direct the Asian Youth Orchestra at the NCPA, including some of the finest young musicians from China, Indonesia, Japan, Korea, Malaysia, the Philippines, Singapore, Thailand and Vietnam and are selected via a highly rigorous audition process. They will play a program that includes Strauss, Sibelius and Beethoven’s Symphony No. 7. 7.30-9.30pm. RMB 80-500. National Centre For The Performing Arts
 

Wednesday, July 26

The Bodyguard: The Musical
This English-language musical stage adaptation of the 1992 classic Whitney Houston and Kevin Costner film has toured nine countries across Europe, America, and Asia. The musical includes all of the hits from the movie, including "I Will Always Love You," making it a not-to-be-missed event for Whitney fans. Until July 30, 7.30-10pm. RMB 180-1,000. Poly Theatre. Read more here.

Thursday, July 27

Ullen's Center Conversations: Selected Poetry Read by Contemporary Artists
UCCA invites art critics, curators, directors, and artists who have shown at the Guggenheim, the New York Museum of Modern Art and the Pompidou Centre in Paris to participate in another form of art – a poetry reading. This Chinese language exhibition is intended to ‘annotate’ visual works on display in the gallery. 3-5pm. Ullens Center for Contemporary Art (UCCA)

Friday, July 28

AmCham Young Professionals Lunch
Make your lunch productive by joining 12-15 motivated young professionals from within the AmCham China community to share resources and best practices for success and career development. Young professionals interested in expanding their network, becoming more involved with AmCham China, and getting to know their peers in the expatriate business community have the opportunity to sit with speaker Jeffrey Towson, a private equity investor/advisor at Peking University, as well as a professor and bestselling author. Noon-1.30pm. RMB 100, RMB 70 (AmCham members). The American Chamber of Commerce
 

Saturday, July 29

Charity Fishing Competition
This event for young professionals brings together locals and foreigners from the business community to fish for charity on Kuanggou Lake. With your minimum 100RMB donation to the Migrant Children’s Foundation, you can spend the day fishing for carp and perch, enjoy a lunch buffet and an evening barbecue and art auction. 8am-10pm. Minimum RMB 100 donation. Kuangou Lake, Huairou

The Beijing Flea Market
The Beijing Flea Market is always a popular choice among Beijingers, and we're happy to see that the summer heat hasn't scared them away from bringing us their usual range of food, clothes, and goodies. Noon-6pm. Free. Pop-Up Beijing

More stories by this authorhere.

Email:tomarnstein@thebeijinger.com
WeChat: tenglish_

Images: Trip Adviser, courtesy of the organizers